Day Seven - La Belle France

 

 

 

We Visit Gold Beach and Etretat

Where the Mulberries "grew".

 

Of all the beaches used for the "debarquement" in Normandy, Gold Beach located near the Normand city of Arromanches, is the most often ignored.  This is a mistake.  Situated as it is between Juno Beach (arrival of the Canadian troops) and Omaha Beach (location of the American invasion and the subject of a multitude of films and print works) Gold Beach can be overlooked, but it has its own story to tell. 

Besides being one of the real successes of the invasion posting the lowest per capita casualty rate of all the beaches, was the location of the only working "Mulberry" artificial harbor.  It also is the site of  one of the most interactive of the Beach museums. 

The artificial harbor idea had its genesis within the cabinet of Prime Minister Winston Churchill prior to the invasion.  Churchill's advisors realized that lacking a real harbor in France until the Allies could liberate Cherbourg or Le Havre, the invasion would be at least slowed, and possibly stalled.  They determined that the best way to continue the re-supply and provisioning missions was to develop a series of enormous caissons lined up to create an artificial harbor.  In conjunction with old ships sunk outside the harbor, and the construction of an innovative semi-floating bridge along the caissons, the Mulberry harbor at Gold Beach allowed supply ships to dock and unload alongside the quay created by the sunk concrete boxes and to make a quick break back into the English Channel. 

 

 

 

View of Arromanches with the remnants of the only successful Mulberry Harbor in the distance.

 

 

 

Arromanches seen from the headlands above the chalk falaises behind the beaches.

 

Spare caissons to be used for repairing the Mulberry Harbor if needed.

A closer view of the Caissons on Gold Beach.




Bradley tank on static display above Gold Beach.

 

 

A FINAL THOUGHT ...

 



As a final comment about Gold Beach ... there is a fine terrace outside the museum the Gold beach landing where I was waiting for the rest of my group to exit the building following the second movie in the museum theatre.  Before they came out, a group of  French students ages 10 - 12 who were visiting the interactive museum came out onto the terrace.  After  they had all gathered there, they spontaneously broke into "La Marsaillaise" the French National Anthem.  They sang the song through to the end with a seriousness that was truly impressive.  Not only is the French Anthem every bit as challenging to sing as the Star Spangled Banner, but it has lyrics that are actually difficult to pronounce for youngsters.  They stood at attention while they sang, and it was clear that their song revealed pride in their nation and appreciation for the sacrifices of their liberators.  It was a good end to a moving visit.

After our visit to Gold Beach, we travel to ETRETAT

 

Historically, Etretat, seaside city in Haut Normandie, has been a favored resort location for Parisians due to its proximity to the City of Lights, (only a two hour drive away), due to its exceptional beauty and due to its beach made up of smooth stones, its chalk cliffs, and the beautiful views from the top.  With its many hiking paths and the relative ease of the climb, tourists can wind their way to the top of the white "falaises" and take in the amazing views without feeling that they need a Sherpa guide. 

To reach Etretat, we must cross the estuary of La Seine via the "Pont de Normandie" an enormous modern bridge that takes us from the department of Basse (or lower) Normandie to its northern neighbor, Haute (or upper) Normandie, on the other side of the Seine River.  While both parts are part of the traditional Normandy, they have been separate administrative districts for many years. 

 

 

The Pont de Normandie

 

 

Etretat:

Careful examination of this photo reveals the outlines of hikers who have reached the top of the cliffs at Etretat. 

 

The beautiful and immaculate stone beach at Etretat.  There is an excellent board walk behind me.  Far from being like the Jersey shore, there are restaurants,  ice cream sellers, and fine hotels along the famous walkway. 

 

 

 

 

A view of the arch from the top.  But, we are not yet all the way at the top of the cliffs.

 

 

Calm seas with gentle breezes on the day of our visit to Etretat encouraged sailors to go for the "Blue Water", what the French call taking to "le grand large".   

 

A view of the beach on the way up to the top with the chapel on the top of the cliffs at the other end of the beach.

 

 

 

 

Whew! We have reached the top of the climb. Two much younger students who accompanied us to the top. 

 

The ramparts of the city of Etretat.