Sunday, June 15, 2014

Day Six - La Belle France

Mont Saint Michel is in Normandy
....  not in Brittany
 
We Visit one of the Great Wonders of The World ...
 
 

Originally called "Mont Tombe" by the ancient inhabitants of Normandy, there has always been an island here ...  a "small rock" in the Atlantic with a perimeter of only about 900 meters and rising about 80 meters above the sea.  Seated at the mouth of the Couesnon River which runs roughly north west and  forms the boundary between Normandy and Brittany, Mont St. Michel has been the object of an ongoing and (somewhat )"friendly debate "as to whom it belongs.  Because the island is east of the mouth of the Couesnon, Normandy has traditionally claimed it.  However, this does not stop Brittany from occasionally making the argument that the river is capricious and has occasionally shifted directions in the past placing it, however briefly, in the hands of the Bretons. They also occasionally remind Normands that it was given to Brittany for a brief period in the Middle Ages. 

  But ... the church is a relatively "recent" addition to the solid granite outcropping.  According to the traditional Normand legend, the church itself only exists because of the influence of St. Michael the Archangel himself.
 
 
The Legend:
 
In the year 708, Aubert, the Bishop of Avranches received a vision during his sleep.  The vision was St. Michael the Archangel who appealed to Aubert to build him an oratory (a small chapel) on the island of Mont Tombe.  Aubert, being the humble and pious man he was, quickly replied that he would do so.  But, upon waking the next morning, Aubert became immersed in his many duties and responsibilities and over time, simply forgot that he had made the promise to St. Michael. 
Some time later, St. Michael again appeared to Aubert as he slept.  St. Michael asked where his Oratory was.  The good Aubert replied that he had not built it.  St. Michael again requested that Aubert make the building of the Oratory a priority.  However, once again, upon rising, Aubert quickly forgot the promise he had made. 

On a third occasion, St. Michael appeared to Aubert.  This time, in order to persuade the Bishop to remember the promise he had made, St. Michael pressed his finger to the forehead of Aubert resulting  in a depression in the forehead of the Bishop which others around the him immediately noticed the following morning. 

Realizing that the Saint was serious about his request, this time, Aubert immediately set about having the small oratory built on the hill of Mont Tombe.  The oratory was dedicated in the year 709.  When he died, in 720, Aubert's skull was examined and was found to have a prominent depression (some say a hole) in the center of his forehead.   His skull is enshrined as a genuine relic in the Basilica of Saint Gervais in Avranches.

 
A medieval high relief stone carving illustrating Bishop Aubert and St. Michael the Archangel.

 
Over the years, the island gradually became home to a larger and larger religious community which required additions to be made made to the church until finally La Merveille (the marvel) was completed.  Reflecting traditional medieval social structure, the top of the island is devoted to God, the next level below it dedicated to the administration of the Church, the level below that reserved for stores, and the lowest levels reserved for residents and merchants with the lowest level used for the homes of humble fishermen and their families. 
 
In addition to being a religious site and home to an order of Cistercian monks, the site has been used as a prison and a fortress over time.  Currently there are only a very few monks residing at the abbey.
 
The Approach to the Island:  Traditionally, since the 1800s, there has been a road connecting the island and the main land.  Over the years, this road has caused extensive silting around the island and threatened to cause the island to become more of a peninsula rather than an island.  Additionally this increase in silting was causing major changes in the eco-system.  A new bridge-style connection with an increased parking area on the mainland was launched in 2005.  The project includes a new dam and ecological improvements on the Couesnon River and its banks.
 
 
The weather started out Normand Style, but improved during our visit.
 

The Commercial area of the island.


The bridge where monks could go from their cells to the church without being disturbed or seen.  Students in the French Language Acquisition program.


French language and culture students listen to an overview of the next level of their climb.

 
The entire complex is built of local blocks of granite quarried on another island and brought to Mont St. Michel.  Medieval stone masons' marks may still be seen on individual blocks of stones.  Granite is the only stone that can withstand the weather and seawater. 
 
 


The entrance to the church referred to as La Merveille





Inside La Merveille during Mass.

 
Arches at the top of Mont St. Michel
 
 
 
 
 
The cloister at the top of Mont St. Michel
 
 
 
The refectory at Mont St. Michel with students listening to a tour guide.
 
 
 
The scriptorium at Mont St. Michel.  The medieval tasks of copying and creating print art were neither as easy nor as pleasant as one might have thought.
 
 
 
 
The view from the top.
 

A national bicycle race beginning at the foot of Mont St. Michel.






 



 
 
 


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