Day Fifteen - La Belle France

HONFLEUR - History, St. Catherine, and Erik Satie'...

(Who Knew?)

 

Honfleur is one of those picturesque French seaside port villages that has become a magnet for tourists, photographers, and students because of its exceptional beauty and its original quaint streets and unique architecture. It is nearly impossible to take a "bad" picture in Honfleur because of the quality of the light there.  It is difficult to quantify, but the light in this city has a certain "glow" about it that illuminates the village and makes it inviting.  Painters from the Impressionist period knew and appreciated this quality.  Included among these is the well known Impressionist, Eugene Boudin who bequeathed 53 of his paintings to the city of Honfleur.  Additionally, Honfleur is the birthplace of Erik Satie' impressionist composer famous for his "Gymnopedie" suite compositions.

Any tour of Honfleur begins with the old port (le vieux bassin)

 

The "vieux bassin" also known as the "Enclos" is now used for docking pleasure craft.  The "Quay St. Catherine" the name given to the stone embankment surrounding the vieux bassin, is a scenic view of old and new.  A student from l'Universite' de Basse Normandie is taking advantage of the amazing light to shoot a memory with her I-Phone.

 

 

 

 

An old wooden vessel still used for fishing docked in the "enclos" near "La lieutenance" the former residence of the King's Lieutenant who served as governor of Honfleur during the 16th century. The dark grey buildings along the Quay are sheathed in Normand slate shingles.

 

 

La Lieutenance

 



 The Lieutenance and the remnants of the lock that used to serve the vieux basin.

 

 

La Porte de Caen

 

 

"La Porte de Caen" (the Caen Gate) one of the few remaining entrances to the city from the old city wall is famous because it was through this gate that Samuel de Champlain left to explore the new world, specifically Canada.   A large plaque and a bronze bust are posted at the Porte de Caen celebrating the departure and exploits of Champlain, the founder of the city of Quebec.

 

 

The Church of Saint Catherine

 

After the end of the 100 Year War, masons and architects around France were impressed into the reconstruction of the damages left by the war.  In addition to this, there was a shortage of stone of all types since stone was in demand to complete the reconstruction of infrastructure and government buildings around the nation.  Impatient to have a church of their own, the residents of Honfleur turned to the only other skilled construction workers in the city, boat builders.  Honfleur had a large number of boatrights who were not fully employed, and the city had easy access to wood. 
The result was the largest wood church in all of France.  The church is unique in every way, but one of the most noticeable is that the ceiling looks like two parallel boat hulls.  Many tourists say that looking up at the ceiling actually feels like looking down into the bottom of a wood ship.  The supporting beams look suspiciously like sail masts and yard arms, and the bracing looks like the kind found in sturdy fishing boats. 
To this day St. Catherine's remains the largest wood church in France and its interior provides a warm comfortable feeling and a sound quality that is unlike any other place. 

 

 

Small Shopping Streets Around the Center of Honfleur

 

Narrow medieval streets still harbor small shops and restaurants that serve the needs of both tourists and residents.

Students look for bargains and window-shop in Honfleur.

 

 

 

Tourists strolling the Quay St. Catherine where traditional sailing flags flap in the breeze.

 

 Low tide at the vieux basin.