Omaha Beach - American Sacrifice; French Liberation
Colleville sur Mer, Normandy, France
Of all the liberation beaches, Omaha Beach is perhaps the best known, not only because it was the largest of the invasion beaches or that it was the "American" beach, but also because it has symbolized the sacrifice and courage of the Normandy invasion perhaps more than any other single place. But, from the beginning the Omaha Beach invasion suffered from a series of errors, underestimations, and confusion. Nevertheless, it was ultimately successful and remains to this day a monument to selflessness, courage, and freedom.
The invasion force included the 29th Infantry Division, the First Infantry Division, a large component of Army Rangers, Combat engineers, and assorted artillery which created a communications challenge.
The Omaha Beach invasion was based on three major errors in intelligence. The German defenses were far more robust than were anticipated, the terrain of the beach itself and the land beyond it was far more complex than anticipated. It was covered with nearly impenetrable brambles and hedgerows (les bocages), and there was an unanticipated number and complexity of beach obstacles. Finally, the weather complicated the attack. Many of the troops were seasick from the trip across the channel, due to high waves, many of the tanks with floatation (DD tanks) sank, and the pre-landing bombardment proved to be insufficient and occasionally misdirected.
Yet, dispite all the challenges, the invasion force prevailed over their adversaries but not without high casualties. At the end of the first day, nearly 2500 soldiers had paid the highest price. The Americans had climbed through the steep sand bluff, clawed their way through the brambles, thorns, and beach grass, and overwhelmed the punishing emplacements of Hitler's Atlantic Wall which crowned the beach. As it turned out, much of the enormous pre-invasion planning proved to be quite accurate and thanks to the instinctive, and some say unique, American skill of adaptation and invention to circumstances, many of the unanticipated problems were overcome.
Our visit to the Omaha Beach Memorial was in many ways a fitting final trip to see "les plages du Debarquement". We were truly in awe.
The current cemetery at Omaha Beach is located on what was originally a temporary landing strip which was no longer needed as Allied troops moved eastward. The land for the cemetery and memorial is a perpetual concession given to the American government by the French Government and is considered American soil. There are 9,387 graves in the cemetery including those of Theodore Roosevelt Jr., and Quentin Roosevelt, who was killed during WWI. The honored dead include invasion troops as well as soldiers who died later in the war and Army Air Corps crews.
The tour of Omaha Beach begins at the orientation table at the center of the overlook. Our guide (center in blue sweater and scarf) explains the significance and challenges of the invasion at Omaha Beach and points out important locations on the beach as they are represented on the orientation table.
Low tide at Omaha Beach.
The optical illusion from this vantage point makes it appear that the beach is flat. In fact the green area includes a significant drop from the top of the bluff to the beach. For perspective, the small dark spots on the beach are people walking on the sand.
The pathway in the lower part of the photo helps to give perspective to the shot as well. The walking descent along the paved path takes fifteen to twenty minutes the return climb can take as long as thirty minutes. Much of the vegetation between the orientation table and the beach includes authentic 1944 indigenous flora and fauna including the notorious brambles, briars, and thorn bushes.
All grave monuments are identical and include many unidentified fallen soldiers.
Lush, yet formal landscaping is ubiquitous and meticulously maintained. The grave of a Jewish soldier may be seen in the second row of this view.
Looking Up at the Dome
The interior dome of the memorial chapel at the center of the over 700 acres is a mosaic representing the sacrifice of American Soldiers for the freedom of Europe and "la Belle France".
The interior of the memorial chapel includes the flags of France, the United States, Great Britain, and Canada.
Inscriptions adorn the walls of the circular domed chapel made of local Caen stone.
The reflecting pool in front of the colonnade. The loggia at either end of the colonnade include large battle maps of the Normandy campaign as well as the engraved names of over 1500 American soldiers who were never recovered.
The bronze statue is over 22 feet tall and is entitled "The spirit of American Youth Rising from the Waves." This scene is often photographed with no visitors in the sot. However, during our visit, there never was a time that there were not many observers present and I suspect that this is the case generally. Thus the photo is more authentic. It may be noticed also that visitors often place floral tributes at the base of the bronze.
The tide and shifting sands recently revealed the remains of a sunken landing craft lost during the D-Day landing. The outline of the craft can easily be seen and a tire probably belonging to a long since gone vehicle that was onboard can be seen from this angle.
Good Bye to Omaha Beach
A parting view of Omaha Beach gives an idea of the enormous size of the beach at low tide and the bluffs commanding the view above it.
Interestingly enough, there has been some debate in France about the advisability of swimming at Omaha Beach. Historically, in respect for those who gave their lives at this site, there has been no bathing. However, a slow change of opinion may be developing based on the thinking that human activity on this beach is in its own way a tribute to the liberty that was purchased by the courage of the soldiers who landed on this beach in 1944. Whether this view will prevail is yet to be seen.
